The Heirloom Gardener - Wreaths

 

Wreaths (from the Middle English wrethe, a twisted garland or ring of leaves and flowers) have been used ceremonially...

Posted by The Heirloom Gardener - John Forti on Sunday, December 5, 2021

Winterizing Strawberries

 

Photo courtesy of StrawberryPlants.org

From a news article by Karly Regan, Penn State Extension, Franklin County

As winter sets in for our area, the fresh berries of summer may be far from our minds! However, to have delicious strawberries to eat, we need to make sure to tuck our plants in for winter properly. If you haven’t already, now is the time to put mulch or row covers over strawberry beds to protect them from winter temperatures.

In matted row production, straw mulch is an essential tool for protecting the crop from winter extremes. Apply four inches of clean mulch (about two tons of straw per acre) after temperatures have dropped into the mid-20s F for 3-4 consecutive days. At this point, plants will have developed some cold tolerance and gone dormant for the season. In our area, this typically occurs between late November and late December. In addition to protecting above-ground tissue from cold temperatures, the mulch protects root and crowns from exposure due to frost heaving. In areas exposed to wind, straw mulch can be held in place by laying wire or plastic fencing over the mulch with bricks or other heavy objects weighting the fencing down. Avoid using leaves as mulch since these can trap too much moisture and lead to ice formation.

For plasticulture production systems, floating row covers are applied when daytime temperatures reach into the low 70s to enable continued growth and crown and bud formation. The row covers will also provide winter protection by reducing desiccation and exposure to low temperatures.

In the spring, you can remove straw mulch when approximately 25% of your plants are producing new growth and temperatures remain above the critical temperatures for strawberry blooms, around 20° F. Another good metric for if it’s time to remove the mulch is when soil temperatures reach 40° F at a 4-inch depth. If early-fruiting is a goal in plasticulture beds, row covers should be removed early in spring.

If temperatures are fluctuating, it is best to partially remove mulch so that photosynthesis can begin but some mulch is still insulating the roots. Once removing, move mulch into the aisles between rows or other area nearby in case it needs to be reapplied for a springtime cold snap. If using row covers over plasticulture, follow the same practice of removing to between the rows in case it needs to be put back over plants for colder temperatures.

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Mistletoe (Phoradendron)

Eastern Mistletoe- Phoradendron leucarpum in Northeast Texas
(Loadmaster David R. Tribble)

There are 1,300 mistletoe species worldwide.with 30 in the continental US and Canada  and 6 others in Hawaii.

All mistletoes grow as parasites on tree and shrub branches. The genus name of North America’s oak mistletoe, the most common in the eastern US—is Phoradendron, Greek for “tree thief.”

Not very romantic! Ancient Anglo-Saxons noticed that mistletoe often grows where birds leave droppings, which is how mistletoe got its name: In Anglo-Saxon, “mistel” means “dung” and “tan” means “twig,” hence, “dung-on-a-twig.”

Photo: Nellie Benson,
Wikimedia Commons

Because mistletoe could blossom even during the coldest winter it is associated with fertility and vitality. The custom of kissing under the mistletoe started in 18th-century England.

The Romans associated mistletoe with peace, love and understanding and hung it over doorways to protect the household.

The mistletoe’s white berries are toxic to humans but are favored during autumn and winter by mammals from deer to chipmunks and bird such as robins, chickadees, bluebirds and mourning doves.

Brown-Honeyeater
feeding-on-mistletoe

 

Three U.S. butterflies depend on mistletoe for survival: the great purple hairstreak, the thicket hairstreak and the Johnson’s hairstreak. These butterflies lay eggs on mistletoe, the caterpillars  eat the leaves, and the adults feed on mistletoe nectar as do some native bees.

CKagan, Master Gardener

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WINTER SOWING

 WHAT IS WINTER SOWING?

Winter sowing is planting seeds outdoors in a protected container during winter. The container remains outdoors until the seedlings emerge in the spring.

There are benefits to winter sowing. When you direct sow in the ground, the seeds are at the mercy of Mother Nature. They can be washed out in downpours; eaten by animals; desiccate in the wind; or rot in the soil. They are more protected in a container and the spring seedlings do not need to be hardened off before planting in the garden. Winter sowing is ideal for those with limited indoor space for seed starting. No special lighting or equipment is required for germination.

The best time to winter sow perennials and annuals is generally December to March depending on the weather conditions in your area. These seeds receive a consistent period of moist, cold temperatures before germination occurs in spring.

You can provide a protected, cold environment in a DIY mini greenhouse for seedlings. This can be a family-friendly activity for parents and children.

INSTRUCTIONS

Clean container — Wash and rinse with mild water/bleach solution (1 Tbsp. per gallon) milk jugs or suitable (material that lets light in) containers. Discard the top. The opening allows rain and melting snow to keep the soil moist.

Cut container — If not using a container with a hinged lid, measure 5” up from the bottom and mark around the sides. Lay it on its side and cut all the way around, leaving about 2” (under the handle, if using a jug with a handle) so that the top hinges open. Children can measure and mark.

Create drainage - Cut 1/8″-1/4″ diameter holes by using a knife, screwdriver or nail to poke 6 to 8 holes and 4 to 6 holes about ½” up from the bottom on the sides. This is important--if you don’t make drainage holes, your seeds will drown! If using a container with a hinged lid, poke a few holes in the top of the lid, too, to let rain and snow in.

Add soil —Use a potting soil mix that's light and drains well. Do not use garden soil or compost and avoid mixes that feature water retention or moisture control properties. Put the soil in a tub and pre-moisten it. Soil should be moist like a damp sponge, light and fluffy and drain well. Fill the container with 2 to 4" of a potting soil mix¹ that's light and drains well.

Sow the seeds — Space them a bit closer than on the packet but at the listed depth. Be sure they are covered. Seedlings can be thinned after germinating in the spring.

Seal the container – Close the hinge, seal the cut edges with duct tape, and leave the top open.

Label the container - Label with the type of seed and date of sowing with a permanent marker.

Set outdoors and leave! – Site the container in an area that receives winter sun. Do not place the container on a covered porch as the seeds require the moisture from the rain and snow. They should experience all the weather conditions they would in nature. Place containers in a milk crate if conditions are windy. Forget about your containers until the spring when the seed germinate.

¹ If you are using toilet roll or paper seed pots, put an inch of soil in the bottom. Fill the pots with soil and set them in container, fitting them in tightly and firmly down on the soil. Fill the soil up to the tops of the tubes. (See eBlog on paper seed pots  )

Spring Care

In spring, once the weather starts to warm up,  check on the moisture inside your mini greenhouses. Check for condensation or lift the containers for weightiness. If some of your containers have condensation but others don't, it is a good bet that those that don't have condensation could use a good drink of water. Also, if some of your containers are lighter in weight when compared to other containers it is a good bet those lighter containers could use a drink, too.

The easiest way to water your containers is to soak them. Put a couple of inches of water in a bucket or large plant saucer and set the container into the bucket of water for approximately 15 to 30 minutes until the container has absorbed as much water as it is going to. Don't worry about over watering, the excess will drain out the bottom holes.

On warm spring days, open the container to keep the seedlings from getting too warm. Close again (no need to re-tape) if evenings are cool. When seedlings are tall enough, or reach the top of the container, and have grown their first few sets of leaves, it’s time to plant them into the garden. They should have a good root system but remove carefully as roots may be tangled together. Some plants will need to wait until after the last frost date (May 12 for Franklin County). Cool weather crops, such as lettuce, can be planted out 4-6 weeks before then.

When seedlings are ready to transplant, be sure to bury the tube in the ground so the edge is below the soil surface. 

Spring Watch for winter sowing

Other resource: Penn State Winter Sowing

CKagan, Master Gardener

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Creating Paper Seed Pots from Toilet Paper Rolls

Paper pots (Photo: INSTRUCTABLES(CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)

Easy to do and great way to start seeds!

Materials:  Toilet paper rolls and scissors

Paper seed pots are not only economical and thrifty but also reduce environmental waste plus make transferring seedlings to the garden easy. Once in the garden, the biodegradable cardboard tubes will fully decompose in soil. This means that when it's time for planting out, the roll and its seedling can be transplanted together, reducing transplantation shock and potential root damage. This is particularly useful for plants that develop long taproots such as milkweed, root vegetables, sunflowers, and herbs such as parsley and dill.

They are good to use in recycled containers for winter sowing. (See the eBlog  post for Winter Sowing).

For shorter pots, cut the roll in half across the middle.

Fold the roll in half one way. Then, fold it in half the other way, so the creases from the last fold line up and to make a square. It works best if you press a ruler or pencil side along the creases to make them sharper.

Make a 1/4 -1/2” slit up the 4 corner folds to make 4 flaps. Fold the flaps in to create a bottom. Press the bottom against a firm surface.

Stand them up and fill with potting soil and add your seeds. In a winter sowing jug be sure to bring the soil up and around the tubes and even with the top.

When seedlings are ready to transplant, be sure to bury the tube in the ground so the edge is below the soil surface. 

CKagan, Master Gardener

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HOLIDAY SPECIAL Price reduction.

Interested in herbs? Looking for Holiday Gifts?

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The Second Edition Herb Sampler (2019) is available through Amazon.