Twas the Night Before Christmas for Gardeners

 

‘T was the Night Before Christmas for Gardeners

 

‘T was the night before Christmas, and all through the yard,

The branches were bare and the ground frozen hard.

The roses were dormant and mulched all around

To protect them from damage if frost heaves the ground.

 

The perennials were nestled all snug in their beds,

While visions of fertilizer danced in their heads;

The newly planted shrubs had been soaked by a hose,

To settle their roots for a long winter’s doze.

 

And out on the lawn the new fallen snow

Protected the roots of the grasses below;

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,

But a truck full of gifts of gardening gear.

 

St. Nick was the driver a jolly old elf,

And he winked as he said, “I’m a gardener myself.

I’ve brought new seeds and light systems, too,

Give them a try and see how they do.

 

“To eliminate weeding, I brought bags of mulch,

To attract the pollinators I have flowers for best results.

To add to your joy, I’ve plenty of herbs

And ornamental grasses for your hell strip curb.

 

“For seed planting days, I’ve a trowel and a dibble,

And a roll of wire mesh if the rabbits should nibble.

I have the latest books, plus some gadgets you’ll love;

Plant stakes and frames, and waterproof gloves.

 

“Here are sharp shears and a new compost pit

And, for pH detecting, a soil testing kit.

With these colorful flagstones, lay a new garden path.

For the view from your window, a bird feed and bath.

 

“And last but not least, some well-rotted manure,

A green garden year-round, these gifts will ensure.”

Then, jolly St. Nick having emptied his load,

Started his truck and took on the road.

 

And I heard him exclaim through the motor’s loud hum,

“Merry Christmas to all, and to all a Green Thumb!”

 

Taken from PegPlant, December 2016

Winter Solstice - Out of the Darkness

 

Tuesday, December 21, 2021 @ 3:59 PM EST

Monday, December 21, 2020, is the Winter Solstice. This is an astronomical event that occurs because our world is tilted on its axis with respect to our orbit around the sun, a fact that explains the seasons in our temperate zones.

Late dawn. Early sunset. Short day. Long night. The shortest day and the longest night of the year. It marks a turn in the seasons as the length of the days get longer.

The Washington Post’s Weather Gang reports that “even though daylight slowly increases after the solstice, many places don’t see their coldest days until mid-January. This happens because the Northern Hemisphere continues to lose more heat than it gains for several more weeks. The oceans – which take longer than land to heat up and cool down – play a role in this seasonal temperature lag. Only after the Northern Hemisphere starts to receive more solar energy than it loses do average temperatures begin their upward ascent.”

Doug Wenztel of the Shaver’s Creek Environmental Center says there’s a bright side as well. This is an opportunity to go out and explore your local areas and see a different landscape.

A walk along a favorite summertime wooded path reveals the shapes of trees and their branching patterns. Sit still and quiet for 15 minutes and soon you will see the birds that stay with us all winter. Discover mosses and evergreen ground covers nestled against the rocks near the path or check the edges of a pond for ice crystals. Think about the bit of shelter they provide for wintering birds as they perch among the rattling leaves, away from winter’s wind.

You most likely will hear the rustle and rattle of dead leaves still clinging to the branches of some trees. Kathleen V. Salibury, Extension Educator, asks,  "Have you ever noticed some trees hang on to their leaves after all the other have colored up and fallen to the ground?"  in her article "Why Do You Just Keep Me Hanging On?"

 “…there's a reason why some leaves keep on hanging on all winter. Marcescence (use it 3 times in a sentence today and you own this word!) is the term for this winter retention of leaves. Beech and oak are deciduous native trees, losing their leaves each fall. But young beech, as well as their cousins [the] oaks, not to mention musclewood, witchhazels and parrotia, hang on to some of their leaves throughout the winter. They are marcescent.

In the fall trees create a separation zone (abscission layer) between petiole (leaf stem) and branch. If the separation layer is complete, the leaves will drop to the ground, to add nutrients to the root zone as they decompose. 

Trees shed their leaves to prepare for harsh winter conditions by conserving valuable resources. They create this separation zone so the falling leaves do not damage the plant in the process of shedding. Marcescent trees do not form this abscission layer completely and so some of the leaves hang on through the winter.”

~ Carol Kagan, Master Gardener

 

The 2020 Christmas Tree

 

This year’s Christmas tree is quite different than last year’s tree as we are cocooning at home this year. Perhaps its simplicity is due to being lazy and not wanting to decorate a 10-foot tree when no one is coming to visit. Or the opportunity to do some holiday crafting of a different nature. Or maybe because I have collected some things on my strolls around the neighborhood.

Perhaps my inspiration came from a holiday project sponsored by Grove Family Library a few years back. 

We assembled a tree from cut greens tucked into a chicken wire cone. I brought nature-inspired items to decorate it. I made garland with hemlock cones. They are quite small. The feathers are pheasant from a hunter friend. There are also pine cones and green berries from some plant, sweet gum seed pods and a craft store bird's nest. I made a star from twigs and birch tree bark. I believe the red berry garland is from a pyracantha bush.

Decorations on our tree include a cornhusk doll made during a Master Gardener workshop with Charles White a few years back so it is a fond memory. A few feathers from a Cardinal were added. I have since made cornhusk dolls with my granddaughter. We even figured out how to make the boys and men. There was a request to make more but I ran out of cornhusks.

Acorns  are from wandering the neighborhood as are the feathers - bluejays, cardinals, doves, goldfinches and a few others. The milkweed pods are from the garden, dried hydrangea blooms and barberry twigs from a neighbor’s yard. The hemlock cones (so little) are from a tree our neighbor had to have removed because of wooly adelgid problems.

Little wreaths from the craft store were the bases for hemlock cones and acorns, plus a feather for accent. The holly sprigs were, again, from a neighbor's yard on a non-snowy day. 

The wooden "snowflake" came from a craft fair and was handmade using walnut, ash, cherry,  poplar and mahogany. Several were purchased as gifts. On a trip to Japan, students were asked to bring a few small gifts in case they needed to thank someone. A group got lost and a stranger led them back to their hostel. He received one of these in a small, tied box as a thank you. I am sure he was pleased to open the box and see one of these with a note about the wood.

And there is even a few Monarch wings that were found here and there. 

Wishing you a holiday season that brings you happy memories and thoughts of the great celebrations coming in the Aftertime.

Snow on the Mountain Cookies

Since my son was young we have made these cookies at Christmas time. I hope I will be able to make them with my grandkids next year. They are also known as Chocolate Crinkle Cookies. This is from the back of a Nestle's mint chocolate chip package many years ago.

1 ½ C chocolate morsels- 10 oz. (mint if you can find them) divided
6 Tbsp of softened butter (3/4 stick)
1 C sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp peppermint extract
1 ½ C flour
1 ½ tsp baking POWDER
1 tsp salt
10 X powdered sugar

Combine flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl.

Melt 1 C of the chocolate chips. In microwave- 1 minute on high. Stir. Heat in 30 sec. increments until melted.

(You can use hand mixer). In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar. Add melted chocolate, vanilla, and peppermint. Mix well. Add eggs last so hot melted chocolate does not “cook” them.

By hand, mix in flour, baking powder and salt. Add in the ½ C of chocolate chips. Mix well.

Wrap in wax paper or plastic wrap and put in freezer for 20 minutes.

Put 10 X sugar in a bowl. Make 1 Tbsp balls of the dough and roll in 10 x sugar. Put on Ungreased cookie sheet or lined with parchment paper.

Bake 8-10 minutes. Leave on cookie sheet to cool. They will seem uncooked when you remove them but will end up chewy when left to cool on the cookie sheet. Sift or sprinkle 10x sugar on warm cookies, if desired.

Makes about 6 dozen small cookies.

Dough can be frozen for later use. Roll into balls and freeze separately on a cookie sheet or pan. Put in a freezer bag once frozen. Roll in 10X sugar after thawing and before baking.

Photo from Amanda's Cookin' (https://amandascookin.com/chocolate-crinkle-cookies/)

Let it Snow. Let it Snow. Let it Snow.

 

 

Oh, the weather outside is frightful

But inside is so delightful.

Since there's nowhere we can go

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.

Oh, my face mask keeps my cheeks so warm 

As I venture outside in the storm.

The driveway walking goes oh, so slow

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.

 

When I finally get to the mail

There are catalogs with stuff for sale

Just two Christmas greeting cards to show

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

 

Oh, there's chili warming in the pot

We've got a pan of cornbread that's hot

Our glasses are filled with white Merlot

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

 

While the dishes are slowly drying

At last there's time for pumpkin pie-ing

We cuddle up with our favorite show

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

 

As we wander off to go to sleep

Knowing tomorrow's snow will be deep

Our new snowblower is gassed to go

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

Overwintering Rosemary Outside

 

After posting a Tuesday Trivia about Rosemary on the Penn State Extension Master Gardener Facebook page, member Jai Cee asked about overwintering Rosemary in Centre Co., PA. Here's some information I copied from a previous Master Gardener post.

Overwintering Rosemary Outside

Currently there are five rosemary varieties that are likely to survive our most severe winters: 'Arp,' ' Hill Hardy,'   'Salem', 'Nancy Howard,' and 'Dutch Mill’. Not all plants listed as hardy will be so for every gardener in the same area. While the rosemary variety 'Miss Jessopp's Upright' has been sold as winter hardy up into south central Pennsylvania, it is inconsistent in its hardiness, dying off in areas as far south as Virginia and yet overwintering in some lower Pennsylvania counties.

Rosemary should be planted before June 1 to allow it to get well established and regular care will result in a healthy plant. Plants sited in sheltered areas, such as near a wall or fence, will get some protection from wind damage and dehydration. Rosemary needs good soil drainage and benefits from southern exposure for the most winter sunlight.

Some Winterizing Tips

Even for winter hardy plants, gardeners can protect against the cold.

In addition to cutting weak, dead and damaged branches, trim any branches that are too low. Fall is not the time to do pruning on rosemary as it will promote new growth that is highly susceptible to frost. Give the plant a deep watering and mulch around the bottom of the plant.

Depending on your site, a small wind break made with tomato stakes and cloth or burlap stapled to them can help.

This is not rosemary but an example of protection.

In our area, rosemary plants need protection from frost, snow and ice as well as wind during the winter. A good way to provide this is to cover or wrap the plants. To provide plant and branch support from heavy snow and ice, wrap the plant with burlap.

Start at the bottom and gently pull the branches loosely together. Overlap the burlap as you wrap to the top, leaving enough burlap to fold over and clip. This will give keep the branches from extending out and collecting the weight of snow and ice on them. Wrap twine loosely around the burlap to secure it. This also reduces light to the plant.

Alternately, put a tomato cage around a plant, or stakes, and wrap them with burlap, leaving extra at the top. The cage or stakes need to be in place before a hard freeze. Fill the inside space loosely with leaves and clip the burlap closed at the top. The leaves help insulate a plant.

You may also be interested in the eBlog post Rosemary Spending the Winter Inside

~ Carol Kagan, Master Gardener

******

Interested in herbs? Check out my book, Herb Sampler. Want more information on the Herb Sampler? Check out this Blog POST 

The Importance of Home Gardens

Heated deck bird bath provides water in winter

Driving by the large, wooded area at the far edge of our neighborhood, my son and I often saw rabbits feeding and on fair nights, with the windows down, we heard the song of spring peepers. In the mid-1980’s posted zoning signs were replaced with store names and construction began. My son asked, as bulldozers toppled trees and turned the woods into a large swath of dirt, “Where will the bunnies go?”

Statistics bear out the significant increase in human population and the millions of acres each year that are taken from native habitat for housing, commercial and industrial uses. Along with these numbers research shows that song birds, meadow birds and their food sources are in great decline.

 

Beyond the benefits of home food production and increased property values, today suburban landscapes are becoming the lifelines for plants and animals that have lost their native habitat to development. As development continues wildlife is forced to depend upon our human-dominated landscapes for their continued survival.

 

What is planted in home landscapes plays an important role in determining the future of wildlife. “[G]ardeners have the power to make a significant contribution” toward variety in both plants and animals wrote Dr. Douglas Tallamy in his book, “Bringing Nature Home.” Establishing areas of biodiversity is important to saving our wildlife.

 

“Biodiversity refers to the richness or variety of animal, plant, and other life in a given area, from the tiniest snail or plant to the largest predator,” wrote Dr. James Finley, Professor of Forest Resources at Penn State. 

Biodiversity embraces all living things, including humans, and how their existence and survival are interconnected. What each plant and animal provides and needs creates a web of interdependence. As an example, plants need insects for pollination and insects need plants for food. Birds need insects and the berries and seeds from plants as food.

 

Tallamy, Professor of Entomology and Wildlife Ecology at the University of Delaware, notes that historically home gardens focused on creating beautiful surroundings, expressing artistic talents with design, and making areas for fun and relaxation. Recent trends show a new focus on design to provide refuge for wildlife and support animals including birds, pollinators and other insects as well as native plants.

 

The Herb Society of America's Green Bridges Program™ promotes the idea that individuals can contribute to building a national chain of yards, gardens and communities that support biodiversity, especially for native plants and pollinators. There are four key things that home gardeners can do to support biodiversity: add native plants, support pollinators, reduce lawn area and create an environment that supports the needs of wildlife.

 

One of the most important things to do is to add native plants, those that grow naturally in our area. Native plants are the most hardy and likely to thrive with less disease or insect problems. Some native plants also filter air and water as well as help maintain soil health. Many ornamental plants, though beautiful, are from Asia and Europe and are avoided by native insects.

 

Tallamy describes the importance of native plants by explaining that “[a]ll animals get their energy directly from plants, or by eating something that has already eaten a plant. The group of animals most responsible for passing energy from plants to the animals that can’t eat plants is insects. This is what makes insects such vital components of healthy ecosystems. ” 

Insects, as reported by the Natural Resources Conservation Service, make up 99.5% of pollinators. “Pollinators are the very foundation of biodiversity. Almost 90% of flowering plants require animal assisted pollination,” said Laurie Collins, Master Gardener. “In addition to one third of our food, they pollinate other species of plants that provide food and shelter to wildlife.”

Collins also noted that pollinators – bees, other insects, butterflies, birds, bats, and mice – need the plants for shelter and food. Adding host and nectar plants that support pollinators is only half the solution. Correct use of herbicides and insecticides is just as important.

 

A typical suburban lawn does not support biodiversity. Cornell University reports that compared to native vegetation, non-native heavily treated turfgrass is a biodiversity wasteland. While some sources suggest replacing lawns with native grass, Dr. Peter Landschoot, Director of Graduate Studies in Agronomy at Penn State, notes in our area native grasses are warm-season species. “They stay dormant for most of the year and become overrun by weeds.” He says that property owners need to be comfortable with having grass at heights of 6-18 inches, not always welcome in residential neighborhoods.

 

Instead convert lawn areas by adding native trees and understory plants to the landscape. This can be along the perimeter or in small areas throughout the property. Tallamy notes that studies show that modest increases in the native plant cover in suburban yards significantly increases the number and species of breeding birds. Additionally, by using lawn space for native plants home owners can reduce the costs of lawn maintenance such as heavy watering, mowing, pesticide and fertilizer applications.

Native trees such as white oaks (Quercus alba), black willows (Salix nigra), red maples (Acer rubrum), green ashes (Fraxinus pennsylvanica), and river birches (Betula nigra), under-planted with woody perennials like serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum), and blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are excellent choices for Pennsylvania properties.

Landscape design can help reverse the human-caused habitat loss by providing some or all of the four needs of wildlife: food, water, shelter and nesting areas. The National Wildlife Federation (NWF) website has practical suggestions for meeting those needs. Once gardeners have met these needs they can apply to the NWF for a Garden for Wildlife ™ certification.

Providing food can be as simple as seed and suet feeders but including native plants with seeds and berries is important as well. Bird baths are typical for home gardens but rain gardens or ponds can provide water sources that serve frogs and other wildlife. Providing water year-round is important and for bird baths can be accomplished with a heat source or by swapping out containers during the day.

 

A rock wall, evergreen tree, wooded area or water garden offers cover from predators. From plain to decorative, birdhouses are some of the best nesting areas when placed correctly. Other nesting sites include mature and evergreen trees, dead trees and even caterpillar host plants such as milkweed. It is also important to make the garden safe for wildlife by protecting the air, water and soil by eliminating or reducing herbicide and pesticide use and adding compost to the soil.

 

The shifting relationship between humans and the environment has changed the balance of nature. Home gardens are an important building block, along with community gardens, parks and other natural spaces, to replacing lost habitat. Gardeners can help restore some of nature’s balance by designing their landscape with the needs of wildlife in mind.

 

~ Carol Kagan, Penn State Master Gardener

Winter Trees

In changing seasons, changing scenes,

From sturdy limbs once clothed in greens,

The stately trees have loosed their hold

On leaves turned scarlet, orange and gold.

 

For some, winter dulls the senses -

Blocking beauty, building fences.

But winter skies with clear blue light

Reveal a wondrous, classic sight.

 

Sleek silhouettes make earth and sky

A canvas drawing in the eye,

To see the form and armature

Upon which other seasons moor.

 

From afar on rolling ridge-line

Branches thick seem branches fine.

The lacy finger-fans of limbs

Are delicate, like dainty trims.

 

Near roadside more can now be seen-

A dearth of leaves, no hiding screen.

And so the ragged nests appear,

Like paint dabs spattered there and here.

 

Tapering trunk with spreading bough

Displays a waiting, watching owl.

And near a red-tailed hawk sits high

With turning head to scan the sky.

 

The spring, summer and autumn woods

Inspire in some creative moods,

But winter's stark revealing tree

Shows a beauteous world to me.

 

Carol Kagan, 2011

Winter Care Tips for Indoors Plants

 

Rosemary in window-Turn 1/4 every few days to keep growth even (B.Petrucci)

It's January - midwinter here - and most plant puttering is done on and around those poor souls inside the house.

When my family, friends and neighbors ask me (the Master Gardener) about caring for their houseplants I try to answer without laughing.

Outside my door, plants thrive; however, my house is just hospice care for houseplants. I am just about to lose an aloe plant that has lasted since 2009. I'm really, really sure it needs to be repotted.

For the tender perennials I bring inside in winter, my rosemary particularly, my goal is to keep it alive until I can put it back outside.

From Master Gardeners I have learned a few key things, so here is my quick tip list followed by a number of great resource sites. It is important to check the needs of each plant since they can vary greatly.

1. Be sure the plant is potted in the right size container (with a drainage hole) and right potting soil.
If you are digging it up and dragging it in from the outdoors then potting it up, don't use garden soil. It's too heavy.

2- Water only as needed when the soil is dry.
Water from the top until water comes out the drainage hole (You do have a drainage hole, right?) into the saucer. About two hours later, drain any excess water from the saucer. Don't allow the roots to stand in water. If you don't see drainage but have watered well, check for a clog in the hole and clear it. Inconsistent watering is one of the primary reasons for plant loss.

3- Use room temperature water.
Leave tap water out overnight, uncapped or uncovered, to allow the chlorine and fluorine added to city water to dissipate. Although these probably don't harm plants, you want the water to be at room temperature anyway. Rainwater, snow melt and well water are ok. Don't use water run through water softeners.

4- Light should be appropriate for the plant.
Each plant is different - flowering plants need moderate light, some foliage plants do well in low-light areas but other need more. Rotate plants near windows to allow for even growth. Improper lighting is only secondary to poor watering practices for plant failure. See below about light level definitions.

5- Humidity indoors in the winter is low.
Use a water-tight tray with constantly moist sand or gravel in it under the plants. Do not put the pot IN the tray. Put the pot with saucer ON the tray. Misting leaves daily can help with low humidity but some plants such as orchids or gardenias need special care. Check sources for help on these.
Be especially mindful of tender perennials that you have brought in from outdoors to overwinter in areas where you may still be running dehumidifiers, such as basements or lighted storage areas.

6- Temperature needs of different plants vary.
Be careful putting plants near windows for the light. These areas might be cold spots or hot spots, especially if they are sited near radiator or heat sources. Although some indoor plants will tolerate cooler rooms, most like temperatures 65° – 75°F.

7- Fertilizer once a month with water-soluble complete fertilizers.
For most plants winter is not a growth period so fertilize lightly. For tender perennials brought indoors, do not prune as this may stimulate growth. Typically, plants in our area use winter (shorter days, longer nights) to go dormant so anticipate slower growth and let the plant rest up. If you have indoor flowering houseplants, check the needs for each individual type. Some may need a healthier dose of fertilizer.

Indoor Light Definitions

Here is a good list of indoor light definitions I found that coincide with information gleaned from different Extension sources. I have not reformatted the information provided by Will Creed (http://en.allexperts.com/q/House-Plants-721/Light-level-definitions.htm).

“The low/medium/high categories are somewhat vague and overlap considerably, so there is no rigid definition for them. Below is my [Will Creed] best effort to bring some clarity to these terms.

High light plants must have some direct sunlight for at least several hours per day and bright indirect light for the rest of the day. South and west facing windows are the best locations for these plants.

Medium light plants must have bright indirect light all day long and can often tolerate a couple of hours of direct sunlight. East and north facing windows are the favored locations for these plants.

Low light plants must be protected from direct sunlight at all times. They thrive in bright indirect light, but will often tolerate minimum light levels. These plants prefer locations close to a north window or away from an east, west, or south facing window where they are protected from the direct rays of the sun.”

~ Carol Kagan, Master Gardener

Amaryllis Flowers

Photo: Jane Birt

Amaryllis flowers can often be seen this time of year and into the New Year. 

The University of Minnesota page (link below) provides information about selecting, planting and caring for the bulbs. The most often question this time of year is how to keep them so they will bloom in future years. Here is an excerpt from their page on After Care.

“The secret to keeping amaryllis thriving for years is to keep the plants actively growing AFTER they have finished blooming.

• After the flowers have faded, cut them off to prevent seed formation. Seed formation will deplete important energy reserves in the bulb and reduce blooming.
• Do not remove the flower stalk until it has turned yellow. 
• A green stem will continue to promote photosynthesis, which creates energy that is stored in the bulb for future leaf growth and flowers.
• If the bulb does not produce a flowering stalk in the next blooming period, it is likely that has not stored enough nutrients during the post-blooming period.
• Keeping the plant healthy and growing will promote blooming.
• After your plant has finished blooming, place it in the sunniest possible location indoors. It will continue to grow long, smooth leaves. These leaves will promote photosynthesis.
• Continue to water and fertilize the plant regularly with an all-purpose houseplant plant fertilizer.”

Here's the link:

University of Minnesota Extension

https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/amaryllis#after-flowering-care-858663

~Carol Kagan, Master Gardener