The Heirloom Gardener - Wreaths

 

Wreaths (from the Middle English wrethe, a twisted garland or ring of leaves and flowers) have been used ceremonially...

Posted by The Heirloom Gardener - John Forti on Sunday, December 5, 2021

Winterizing Strawberries

 

Photo courtesy of StrawberryPlants.org

From a news article by Karly Regan, Penn State Extension, Franklin County

As winter sets in for our area, the fresh berries of summer may be far from our minds! However, to have delicious strawberries to eat, we need to make sure to tuck our plants in for winter properly. If you haven’t already, now is the time to put mulch or row covers over strawberry beds to protect them from winter temperatures.

In matted row production, straw mulch is an essential tool for protecting the crop from winter extremes. Apply four inches of clean mulch (about two tons of straw per acre) after temperatures have dropped into the mid-20s F for 3-4 consecutive days. At this point, plants will have developed some cold tolerance and gone dormant for the season. In our area, this typically occurs between late November and late December. In addition to protecting above-ground tissue from cold temperatures, the mulch protects root and crowns from exposure due to frost heaving. In areas exposed to wind, straw mulch can be held in place by laying wire or plastic fencing over the mulch with bricks or other heavy objects weighting the fencing down. Avoid using leaves as mulch since these can trap too much moisture and lead to ice formation.

For plasticulture production systems, floating row covers are applied when daytime temperatures reach into the low 70s to enable continued growth and crown and bud formation. The row covers will also provide winter protection by reducing desiccation and exposure to low temperatures.

In the spring, you can remove straw mulch when approximately 25% of your plants are producing new growth and temperatures remain above the critical temperatures for strawberry blooms, around 20° F. Another good metric for if it’s time to remove the mulch is when soil temperatures reach 40° F at a 4-inch depth. If early-fruiting is a goal in plasticulture beds, row covers should be removed early in spring.

If temperatures are fluctuating, it is best to partially remove mulch so that photosynthesis can begin but some mulch is still insulating the roots. Once removing, move mulch into the aisles between rows or other area nearby in case it needs to be reapplied for a springtime cold snap. If using row covers over plasticulture, follow the same practice of removing to between the rows in case it needs to be put back over plants for colder temperatures.

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Mistletoe (Phoradendron)

Eastern Mistletoe- Phoradendron leucarpum in Northeast Texas
(Loadmaster David R. Tribble)

There are 1,300 mistletoe species worldwide.with 30 in the continental US and Canada  and 6 others in Hawaii.

All mistletoes grow as parasites on tree and shrub branches. The genus name of North America’s oak mistletoe, the most common in the eastern US—is Phoradendron, Greek for “tree thief.”

Not very romantic! Ancient Anglo-Saxons noticed that mistletoe often grows where birds leave droppings, which is how mistletoe got its name: In Anglo-Saxon, “mistel” means “dung” and “tan” means “twig,” hence, “dung-on-a-twig.”

Photo: Nellie Benson,
Wikimedia Commons

Because mistletoe could blossom even during the coldest winter it is associated with fertility and vitality. The custom of kissing under the mistletoe started in 18th-century England.

The Romans associated mistletoe with peace, love and understanding and hung it over doorways to protect the household.

The mistletoe’s white berries are toxic to humans but are favored during autumn and winter by mammals from deer to chipmunks and bird such as robins, chickadees, bluebirds and mourning doves.

Brown-Honeyeater
feeding-on-mistletoe

 

Three U.S. butterflies depend on mistletoe for survival: the great purple hairstreak, the thicket hairstreak and the Johnson’s hairstreak. These butterflies lay eggs on mistletoe, the caterpillars  eat the leaves, and the adults feed on mistletoe nectar as do some native bees.

CKagan, Master Gardener

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WINTER SOWING

 WHAT IS WINTER SOWING?

Winter sowing is planting seeds outdoors in a protected container during winter. The container remains outdoors until the seedlings emerge in the spring.

There are benefits to winter sowing. When you direct sow in the ground, the seeds are at the mercy of Mother Nature. They can be washed out in downpours; eaten by animals; desiccate in the wind; or rot in the soil. They are more protected in a container and the spring seedlings do not need to be hardened off before planting in the garden. Winter sowing is ideal for those with limited indoor space for seed starting. No special lighting or equipment is required for germination.

The best time to winter sow perennials and annuals is generally December to March depending on the weather conditions in your area. These seeds receive a consistent period of moist, cold temperatures before germination occurs in spring.

You can provide a protected, cold environment in a DIY mini greenhouse for seedlings. This can be a family-friendly activity for parents and children.

INSTRUCTIONS

Clean container — Wash and rinse with mild water/bleach solution (1 Tbsp. per gallon) milk jugs or suitable (material that lets light in) containers. Discard the top. The opening allows rain and melting snow to keep the soil moist.

Cut container — If not using a container with a hinged lid, measure 5” up from the bottom and mark around the sides. Lay it on its side and cut all the way around, leaving about 2” (under the handle, if using a jug with a handle) so that the top hinges open. Children can measure and mark.

Create drainage - Cut 1/8″-1/4″ diameter holes by using a knife, screwdriver or nail to poke 6 to 8 holes and 4 to 6 holes about ½” up from the bottom on the sides. This is important--if you don’t make drainage holes, your seeds will drown! If using a container with a hinged lid, poke a few holes in the top of the lid, too, to let rain and snow in.

Add soil —Use a potting soil mix that's light and drains well. Do not use garden soil or compost and avoid mixes that feature water retention or moisture control properties. Put the soil in a tub and pre-moisten it. Soil should be moist like a damp sponge, light and fluffy and drain well. Fill the container with 2 to 4" of a potting soil mix¹ that's light and drains well.

Sow the seeds — Space them a bit closer than on the packet but at the listed depth. Be sure they are covered. Seedlings can be thinned after germinating in the spring.

Seal the container – Close the hinge, seal the cut edges with duct tape, and leave the top open.

Label the container - Label with the type of seed and date of sowing with a permanent marker.

Set outdoors and leave! – Site the container in an area that receives winter sun. Do not place the container on a covered porch as the seeds require the moisture from the rain and snow. They should experience all the weather conditions they would in nature. Place containers in a milk crate if conditions are windy. Forget about your containers until the spring when the seed germinate.

¹ If you are using toilet roll or paper seed pots, put an inch of soil in the bottom. Fill the pots with soil and set them in container, fitting them in tightly and firmly down on the soil. Fill the soil up to the tops of the tubes. (See eBlog on paper seed pots  )

Spring Care

In spring, once the weather starts to warm up,  check on the moisture inside your mini greenhouses. Check for condensation or lift the containers for weightiness. If some of your containers have condensation but others don't, it is a good bet that those that don't have condensation could use a good drink of water. Also, if some of your containers are lighter in weight when compared to other containers it is a good bet those lighter containers could use a drink, too.

The easiest way to water your containers is to soak them. Put a couple of inches of water in a bucket or large plant saucer and set the container into the bucket of water for approximately 15 to 30 minutes until the container has absorbed as much water as it is going to. Don't worry about over watering, the excess will drain out the bottom holes.

On warm spring days, open the container to keep the seedlings from getting too warm. Close again (no need to re-tape) if evenings are cool. When seedlings are tall enough, or reach the top of the container, and have grown their first few sets of leaves, it’s time to plant them into the garden. They should have a good root system but remove carefully as roots may be tangled together. Some plants will need to wait until after the last frost date (May 12 for Franklin County). Cool weather crops, such as lettuce, can be planted out 4-6 weeks before then.

When seedlings are ready to transplant, be sure to bury the tube in the ground so the edge is below the soil surface. 

Spring Watch for winter sowing

Other resource: Penn State Winter Sowing

CKagan, Master Gardener

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Creating Paper Seed Pots from Toilet Paper Rolls

Paper pots (Photo: INSTRUCTABLES(CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)

Easy to do and great way to start seeds!

Materials:  Toilet paper rolls and scissors

Paper seed pots are not only economical and thrifty but also reduce environmental waste plus make transferring seedlings to the garden easy. Once in the garden, the biodegradable cardboard tubes will fully decompose in soil. This means that when it's time for planting out, the roll and its seedling can be transplanted together, reducing transplantation shock and potential root damage. This is particularly useful for plants that develop long taproots such as milkweed, root vegetables, sunflowers, and herbs such as parsley and dill.

They are good to use in recycled containers for winter sowing. (See the eBlog  post for Winter Sowing).

For shorter pots, cut the roll in half across the middle.

Fold the roll in half one way. Then, fold it in half the other way, so the creases from the last fold line up and to make a square. It works best if you press a ruler or pencil side along the creases to make them sharper.

Make a 1/4 -1/2” slit up the 4 corner folds to make 4 flaps. Fold the flaps in to create a bottom. Press the bottom against a firm surface.

Stand them up and fill with potting soil and add your seeds. In a winter sowing jug be sure to bring the soil up and around the tubes and even with the top.

When seedlings are ready to transplant, be sure to bury the tube in the ground so the edge is below the soil surface. 

CKagan, Master Gardener

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Landscape Prep for Winter

 

Prepare your landscape for winter weather (Kagan)

Before waking up one morning to a beautiful but snowy or icy wonderland, think about the winter weather ahead. After cleaning up the landscape, homeowners should look at their yard and contemplate winter events such as wind, snow, ice, and road salt.

When you have finished raking up the last of the leaves, and clearing them out of the rain gutters, look up at the bare trees. Brian Wolyniak, Penn State Urban Forester, has these suggestions.

“Winter is an ideal time to inspect tree branches for defects, decay, or structural issues without the camouflage of leaves. Wounds, decay cavities, crooked growth, and weak branch unions are problems in the making that can be more easily spotted when the trees are bare.”

Save big pruning jobs for the arborists (KKnuepfer)

“Pruning also is easier in the winter. Instances to look for include crossed branches, dead or decaying branches, and closeness to utility wires.” Don’t forget to look for branches that overhang the house, shed, garage and driveways. Wind, heavy ice or snow can bring these down.

Wolyniak says that pruning is both an art and a science. While homeowners can take care of some of their tree maintenance, he suggests only pruning what can be reached from the ground. Call a certified tree arborist for other pruning needs.

Windbreaks can protect from road salt spray.(Kagan) 

Protect tender perennials and shrubs from wind, snow, ice, and salt spray. Use burlap to make a protective shield around the plant. It is good to also protect any tender perennial plants by wrapping them in burlap or protecting them with windbreaks. Some shrubs such as acuba (gold dust) plants and arborvitae may benefit from being wrapped loosely to keep their branches from breaking under heavy ice or snow.

Keep the burlap away from the plant.
(Morton Arboretum)

Julie Janoski, manager of the Plant Clinic at The Morton Arboretum, suggests instead of wrapping burlap around lower growing plants, use the fabric to make a flat, vertical screen where needed. Staple the burlap to sturdy wooden stakes pounded into the ground. Keep the burlap panel a few inches clear of the plant. “A vertical panel won’t collect snow,” she said. Air will circulate freely around the shrub, and the leaves will dry off after rain.

Also be aware of how deicers can affect your property. Check out this information on the blog.

Be prepared and avoid whatever problems you can as we approach our winter season.

CKagan, Master Gardener

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Fall Pruning

 

Photo by Karen Knuepfer

***Fall Pruning…Simple, right?

An article by York County Master Gardener Karen Knuepfer, posted October 2021

(Put here to find it later😊)

Ahhhh, September…

There is something about the cooler temperatures, the crisper mornings, the generally softer air and bluer skies that just promises the delights of Fall. And, gets many the gardener itching to put away the summer garden and prepare his/her grounds for the next growing season. Let the Great Clean-Up commence! For many, that includes grabbing the pruning shears to…Tidy Up.

WHOA, Nellie, or Ned! Not so fast! While it may “make sense” to clean up the whole darned mess, in most cases, September/October is NOT the time to prune. To prune is to stimulate new growth. Fall is when plants in our region are actually trying to go dormant, to enter a state of temporary metabolic inactivity or very limited activity, basically suspended animation, during which plants conserve energy and protect themselves from the rigors of Winter’s frigid temperatures and conditions. Plants know when to hunker down and save their reserves. If pruning encourages new growth just when a plant is slowing down, that new growth may be doomed; the plant will certainly be stressed and thereby weakened just when that new growth does not have time to harden off before the first frost.

So, Nellie or Ned…take a deep breath and put away the pruning shears for at least a couple of months. Use your gardener energy to rake up dead leaves, [Do you need to rake up leaves?] mulch your beds (using those dead leaves!), commit those dead annuals and vegetables to the compost heap. That being said, certainly this is the time to inspect for and remove dead or dying diseased plants (blackened stems, withered leaves, spotted foliage may be indicators); cutting back with the pruners may be appropriate in this case and trash or burn the removed plants rather than composting. No sense incubating a disease. Prune back or cut down dead limbs or branches, too. No sense in risking injury or damage due to flying debris in a Winter wind.

Actually, the better time for true pruning is during that Thanksgiving-to-New Year period of Winter or Early Spring. Certainly some time after several hard frosts is optimal. Pruning creates a wound that the plant must seal; pruning before the plant’s natural spring growth spurt will allow the wound to seal and heal faster. Choose clear, dry days to work. Cool temperatures provide less stress to a pruned plant and dry conditions reduce the growth of microbes that can lead to disease which may undo the benefits of your hard work. Focus on removing dead or dying branches, crossing branches which may rub (cut the smaller branch off), and vertical growth or suckers (cut as close to the base of the growth as possible). The general benefit of good pruning is to provide more air circulation and light throughout the plant, yielding more flowers and fruit for flowering plants, shrubs and fruit trees, and healthier canopy for non-bloomers.

Other thoughts regarding To Prune or Not to Prune:

Crape myrtle with seed pods reaches to the sky.

Many perennials and native plants (think yarrow, cone flower and agastache) and ornamental grasses are gorgeous in the Winter, even in their dry, dormant states. They provide textural interest in the Winter garden, as well as shelter and food for birds, insects and other wildlife. Mums can “come back” for years if left unpruned until Spring so their their roots are protected from the harsh Winter temperatures; and you will know where they are in your garden after the snows melt!

If you just have to get out and wield those pruning tools, be sure to wait until we’ve had a few hard frosts. This allows your perennials, for instance, to go fully dormant. Cut your plants back to 3” above the ground. Look for signs of disease and get rid of those sickly guys. Burn or discard what you remove. Your perennial beds will thank you in the Spring and Summer.

Shrubs are best pruned in late Winter or early Spring if they are non-blooming. The general rule of thumb for flowering shrubs is to prune immediately after blooming (think Azalea, Spirea). But it is important to know the difference between Spring bloomers that set their buds on old growth, such as oakleaf hydrangea: prune after blooming, and those that wait to set their buds on new growth, such as Annabelle or PG hydrangea: OK to prune in Winter. I admit, it can get confusing!

Deciduous shade trees like the oaks and lindens we have around York are best pruned in Winter. Their branching structure is easy to see without their crowns of leaves, so beneficial pruning will be more effective and confident. Some other shade trees like maples, birch and dogwood will produce a heavy flow of sap if pruned in the Winter – unsightly but not harmful. Nevertheless, you might want to wait until Summer when their leaves are fully expanded to shape up these “bleeders.”

[Cornell information sheet on pruning techniques and timing.]

Broadleaf evergreens like holly and magnolia generally need no pruning at all, while needleleaf evergreens, for instance, such as yews, junipers and firs are best pruned early in the growing season; take care not to cut back into the old bare wood which may not sprout new growth. Pine trees are best pruned during their “candle stage” growth spurt, but prune very gently, taking no more than half the “candle.”

Deciduous fruit trees, say apples, cherries and plums, are a whole other matter. Despite being Spring bloomers, selective pruning is best done mid-Winter. You will lose some flower buds but you will provide a more open growing environment, producing a better fruit crop.

When I chose to write about this simple topic: Pruning in the Fall, I truly had no idea how complex a subject I was taking on. Suffice it to say, you need to know your plants and need to proceed with some education and caution to be a happy and successful Pruner. Best practice: know your plants; use clean, sharp tools; be mindful of the calendar and the weather; and leave pruning in high places and near power lines to the professionals! If you are not sure what to do, check in with your local Extension office or the Master Gardener Hotline 717-840-7408; yorkmg@psu.edu; 2401 Pleasant Valley Road, #101, York PA 17402. And, know that the Fall Garden Clean-Up will probably be more than a one-weekend project.

Happy Fall, ya’ll!

(Photo by Karen Knuepfer)

Karen Knuepfer is a Master Gardener in York County. Penn State Master Gardeners are volunteers for Penn State Cooperative Extension.

The Craighead House- Carlisle, PA

 

Craighead House (Courtesy of Comm. to Restore)

Recently I was alerted to the fact that the Cumberland County Master Gardeners, and other volunteers, are helping to maintain a pollinator garden at the Craighead House  in Carlisle, Pa. With the help of organizations such as Chesapeake Bay Foundation and the Yellow Breeches Watershed Association, plus other generous individuals, this property is being transformed into an educational center on nature, the environment, and local history. This month I visited the property and was pleasantly surprised by all the features there.

Pollinator Garden

The Craighead property includes the original house built in 1886, currently in restoration, property along the Yellow Breeches limestone stream, a popular fly-fishing spot, and grounds where nature thrives. From the 1800’s through the 1990's three well-known nature lovers spent time at the Craighead House -  twin brothers Frank Jr. and John plus their sister Jean Craighead George. Frank and John are best known for establishing falconry in the U.S. and their study of grizzly bears in Yellowstone National Park. Writing more than 100 children’s books related to nature, including Newberry Award winners Julie of the Wolves and My Side of the Mountain, Jean was cited as a Conservation Hero by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Aster w/Clouded Yellow

From an article on the Cumberland County Master Gardener site: “The garden beds include a pollinator bed that was funded through the Chesapeake Bay Foundation and the Yellow Breeches Watershed Association. The beds are maintained by volunteers, several of whom are Master Gardeners. In 2021 Craighead House was approved as a Master Gardener demonstration site focusing on educating the public about pollinators, native plants, and invasive species.”

There were fall blooms in the garden and many pollinators visiting during our visit on October 15, 2021.  We were amazed at the size of the bees on the Mountain Mint  and the variety of bees, butterflies and other pollinators on the Aster flowers and Golden Rod. Native plants surround the house along the porch and around the property. The property looks like it might have when the family came for summers in the 1930’s.

In various places around the house area there are signs with information about pollinator plants, invasive plants and native plants. A springtime and summer visit will no doubt show blooms on many of the plants that are now going dormant. 

According to Gerald Almy, a trout fishing enthusiast, the Yellow Breeches is one of the four most hallowed limestone streams in  Pennsylvania for trout fishing. Worth noting is that Falling Spring in Franklin County is among them. Glancing out along the stream with autumn colors starting to show there was a man fly-fishing in the gently flowing water. There were a few benches placed along the banks facing the stream. A pleasant and calm resting spot. Boating or fishing can be accessed from the grounds at the far end of the parking lot.

Kitchen Wall (Courtesy of the Sentinel)

The house is being restored and I wandered around the wrap-around porch looking in windows. The kitchen area was filled with storage boxes but I noticed some drawing on the walls. My thought was that when it was abandoned it was visited and graffiti added. I was surprised to see the front door open so, after calling out, I ventured in. Rooms were empty of furniture and I went to the kitchen. WOW!

All the walls in the kitchen were covered with more than 250 drawings, paintings, cartoons, and doodles, in addition to some well-done art sketches. One of the dates is 1929 and others as recent as the 1970’s.  I discovered in the brochure that the artwork that was done by several generations of family and friends is being preserved during the restoration. Many are signed with a date or other identification. One local resident, Tom Benjay, has taken on the task of trying to identify the artists.

Shared by Ann Dailey "an interesting tidbit on the artwork in the kitchen: the first painting was done on a bit on a whim by one of the uncles in 1929 (the cats and mice around the stove pipe flu), but it started a 70 year Craighead tradition which ended in 1999 when the author Jean Craighead George and her son painted the last two animals on the only white space left.  It was the last time that the family got together at the house for her 80th birthday. Her famous brother, Frank, one of the naturalist twins, died in 2001."

Postcards for sale (Craighead House website)

An area created by local Eagle Scouts provides an area for the many community events held there along with programs and presentations highlighting nature topics. Storytimes with read aloud of Jean's nature picture books, interactive insect programs, and occasional community days with crafts, games, treats and interactive activity stations featuring owls, bats, "quill" craft, spider hunt and more are organized for the public.

The Craighead House is located at 318 East Old York Road, Carlisle, PA 17015.  Parking is available in the gravel parking lot located off Old York Road to the left of the house. The grounds are open daily to the public, free of charge, from dawn to dusk.

Photos: Carol Kagan except for Kitchen Wall & Craighead House & postcards

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It's Garlic Planting Time

 (From my Gardening Column in the Franklin County Free Press)

It’s garlic planting time - now until early November, before a local freeze. One bulb of garlic with 8 to 10 cloves will give you 8 to 10 bulbs next year. A fine return for your patience as garlic has a long growing season. Garlic takes 8 to 9 months to harvest so fall plantings won’t be ready until May or June next year. Fall is the best time to plant as it allows the roots to develop. You will be planting garlic cloves, the individual pieces from the garlic bulb.

There are two types of garlic – softneck and hardneck – the neck referring to the stem. Softneck types have a long shelf life, mild flavor, and their leafy stem makes them easy to braid. They are the ones most often stocked by grocery stores. Hardneck are recommended by Penn State for southern areas in the state.

1-Buy your bulbs from your local nursery, garden center, or mail order from catalogues. Remember when you buy that there are from 8 to 12 cloves per bulb but you will want to plant only the biggest.

2-Start in a small area with well-drained soil and a minimum of 6 hours of sun. It is important to prepare for future replanting as it needs at least two years or more to allow the soil to recover. Horticulturist Jessica Walliser shows how it might be grown in pots.

3-You will need to break the bulbs to get the cloves to plant. Don’t do this more than a day before planting as the root end will dry out making it have to get established. Sort the cloves keeping the biggest to plant.

4-Plant upright with the root nodule down about 2-4” into the soil, spacing them 4-6” apart. Leave 6” between rows.

5-Water them well for 3-4 days then mulch with 2-4” of straw or shredded leaves. For proper bulb formation, water weekly as needed and side dress with nitrogen rich fertilizers until the flower stalks (scapes) appear. Allow the soil to dry before you harvest. Check out this information from the  Allegheny Master Gardener program. 

6-Use a garden fork to lift a few bulbs to see if they are mature.

7-After harvesting, allow them to dry and harden in a shady, well-ventilated, shaded area for a few weeks. Brush away the dirt and trim the roots and tops within an inch of the bulb.

CKagan, Master Gardener

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